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The Wardrobe: McQueen Simple

Thursday 19 January 2012

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Chinos: Civilian Service Chinos by Garbstore

Sweater: Lightweight Brioni Sweater from Mr Porter 

Boots: Greasy Boots by Private White VC

Shirt: J. Crew Bengal stripe shirt

Sunglasses: Han Kjobenhavn Timeless sunglasses (Army Tortoise)
 

 

Posted by Stealth

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Greasy Boot from Private White VC

Tuesday 17 January 2012

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These boots from Private White VC caught my eye recently. Made in England from waxy leather with a full leather lining they feature a micro sole topped off with waxy laces. The militaristic overtones are a hallmark of this distinctive British label. A newish name on the menswear seen, Private White has a fascinating back story originating as it does from one of England’s last and most respected clothing manufacturers. Previewing their first collection back in May 2011 as a brand well worth watching, they haven’t disappointed.

I find I prize simplicity above all other elements of style. It’s the facet most difficult to achieve and the one that pays by far the biggest dividend. But the simplest things are often the hardest to achieve, and dressing is no different. It requires a bit of discipline to keep things low key. What is more your kit needs to be in the best order, fit properly and to really work the quality needs to shine through. The master of such easy dressing was of course...
 
 
 
 
 

 

Posted by Stealth

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Urban

Footwear

Independent

Craftsmanship

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Online Only: A Fine Pair of Shoes

Sunday 18 December 2011

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When it comes to footwear the golden rule is spend the most you can afford. Shoes are an investment and you get what you pay for, skimp and you’ll find it a false economy. So having invested heavily in your footwear it’s wise to take care of your investment and that’s where this stuff comes in.


Read enough forum chat on those websites inhabited by shoe obsessive’s and you’ll soon realise that Saphir shoe cleaning and care products are the best going. With higher concentrations of natural oils than other waxes and creams they take to the leather better while nourish it at the same time. The Renovator I bought is designed to help prevent a problem I’ve had with many a pair of otherwise serviceable shoes, namely, the leather splitting along the creases made from natural wear. The Renovator keeps the leather soft, supple and prevents it from drying out. Rotate into your normal cleaning routine and, apparently, it will add years to a pair of shoes.


I tried this product out as soon as it arrived. I started with a pair of chestnut coloured loafers and you could actually see it permeate into the leather as it was applied. Not cheap at £11 a tub, given what I spend on my shoes it could be worth every penny. Not a bad stocking filler either for those looking for a few last minute gift ideas.


Saphir products are next to impossible to buy in this country but I picked this tub of Saphir Renovator up from a nifty little UK based website called A Fine Pair of Shoes. A newish business, but one I’ve kept an eye on for the last 6 months, it is run by husband and wife team Julian and Sarah Nelson.

 

Aside from a full range of Saphir shoe cleaning products and creams they also have a nice collection of shoes for retail. In particular, if you’re looking for a bargain I’d suggest you check out the discontinued ranges of Alfred Sargent shoes. AS recently changed their business model, in part down to the incompetence of management. Instead of producing solid well made mid-priced shoes they’ve gone up market. Sadly that means their old ranges are only available as discontinued ranges. Great shoes I’ve owned several pairs in the past and would again if only they still made them.

However, A Fine Pair of Shoes have plenty of these in stock  (while they last) and so for that reason, and their range of Saphir products, it’s a website well worth adding to your favourites.

 

 

 

Posted by Stealth

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Maintenance

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Martelli Gloves, Milan

Monday 5 December 2011

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I am as committed to finding great independent retailers abroad as I am at home.
 
Should you find yourself in Florence, as I did recently, then as far as purchases go gloves are a must. Amongst the many local retailers Martelli is perhaps the most famous. This family firm produce their own handmade gloves in their own workshop in the area itself. The prices are noticeably cheaper for a markedly superior product than one would find even in London. The beautiful Navy leather gloves above come with a soft cashmere lining and cost me just 39 Euros (about £35).

You’ll often find that Italian independent retailers are space light and stock heavy. Martelli is no different. Crammed into a space no bigger than 16ft by 8ft, there is just enough room for the counter and the customer. But don’t let that put you off, from floor to ceiling is row upon row of wooden drawers each filled with a beautiful array of hand made gloves. And, as is often the case in Italy, the level of service goes above and beyond mere duty. Having picked out the colour of glove I wanted a velvet cushion was then placed on the counter on to which I was instructed to place my elbow with my arm and hand pointing vertically. The charming female shop assistant then proceeded to place the glove on my hand, fitting and checking each finger as she went to ensure I had the perfect size. Rather pleased with my purchase my only regret now is that I didn't pick up one or two more pairs.

N.B. As a rule a man can do little wrong if he matches his gloves to his shoes: brown with brown, black with black and deerskin with chestnut. As your confidence with colour matching grows you can consider branching out. As it happens I have a pair of navy tassel loafers so these will fit nicely. But I’m considering buying a fawn Covert Coat this season which will invariably be paired with navy suits and navy scarf. So while navy is an unusual choice I’m hoping it will work rather well with other items in my wardrobe.

And should you find yourself in Florence I strongly recommend a trip to Martelli.

Martelli Gloves
Via Por Santa Maria, 18/r
FIRENZE (Italy)
 

 

Posted by Stealth

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Italian

Apparel

Independent

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